The way home from Mardin was down to the Syrian border in the valley - along the border almost as far as Iraq and then up through the hills to the Tigris valley at Hasankeyf.
Hasankeyf is an ancient fort, religous place and crossing point. It seems that you were not anybody in the ancient world unless you built a crossing at Hasankeyf. After lunch on a chaibench in the river, I went on to Diyarbakr - the Kurdish "capital" for a quick look at the walls and to buy a carpet before catching the plane home.
This area is "open to tourists" despite the ongoing "difficulties" in Iraq. However - there were three army road blocks on the roads and a lot of serious looking people with sub-machne guns!
